Puriscal is one of Costa Rica’s best-kept birdwatching secrets a rugged, forested area in the province of San José that sits at around 945 meters on the Pacific slope, close enough to the capital to reach in an hour yet wild enough to feel like a completely different world. Most birders bypass it on their way to Monteverde or Tortuguero, which means those who do make the journey find themselves sharing the trails with almost no one else, a rarity in a country where ecotourism has grown enormously. The heart of birdwatching in Puriscal is La Cangreja National Park, a 2,570-hectare protected area established primarily to shelter birds, and especially the large numbers of migratory species that pass through in fall and spring. The park’s name comes from Cerro La Cangreja, a peak at 1,305 meters whose shape, according to indigenous legend, resembles a giant crab. Its terrain descends dramatically from that summit down to humid river valleys at around 300 meters, and that elevation gradie...